My lamination is cloudy – what has caused this?
This is usually the result of insufficient heat so if your machine has heat control, try and increase the temperature. Also, check the specifications of your machine and that you are not using a film that is too thick
My lamination is bubbly/rippling – what has caused this?
Bubbling is usually caused by the heat setting on the machine being set too high so if your machine has heat control (which most do) then lower the temperature.
It is a good idea to always run a test print through the laminator first if you are unsure.
How can I avoid laminator film wrap up?
Always ensure that you have clearance behind the laminating machine before you start laminating, as with many things preparation is the key so it is best to make sure you have enough working space available and avoid backing your laminator up against a wall. Try and let 2/3” of film to appear out of the back of the laminator as you start to laminate.
Can I laminate small documents (A5, A4 size) on my wide format laminator and if yes, how?
It is possible to laminate smaller documents on wide format systems, although a smaller roll fed or pouch machine would be more suitable. If you want to apply a single side laminate, take a look at our Matrix Duo Range.
If you are encapsulating, then you can run your documents through the laminator and simply trim them to size when finished. However if laminating on one side only, you will need to use a silicon release paper to ensure the adhesive film on the ‘free’ side does not stick to the roller.
What is the best way to send a laminated print?
It is best to roll the print into a sturdy card tube, rolled with the image facing the outside to keep the laminate from getting air bubbles and cracks on the image side.
Do I need to leave my prints to dry before I laminate?
For best quality results and to ensure the laminate sticks to the print, it is recommended to allow adequate drying time prior to the application of any form of lamination. The drying (also known as ‘curing’ time) can range from 4 to 24 hours but this depends on several factors including type of print media being laminated, substrate, inks, type of laminator, and final destination for the finished print.
Allowing adequate drying time can make the difference between your job going right or wrong, so it is best to plan your in advance and allow prints to dry. This also prevents ‘outgassing’ which is when the air bubbles are trapped between the print and the laminate, something you need to avoid!
Of course there are many different factors to also think about which can affect drying time, these include type of print media being laminated, substrate, inks, type of laminator, and where the final poster or banner will be displayed.
How do I successfully laminate an inkjet print that has a high ink coverage?
Laminating a high ink coverage print can be tricky as standard heat activated polyester films with a co-polymer adhesive tend to stick to the ink and not the paper. The laminate can then lift off darker colour areas of the print and the problem becomes more obvious when the darker areas extend to the edge of the print with no white border for the adhesive to bond to.
Another problem that may occur with laminating high ink coverage is that the ink can separate from the paper at a high heat 100-120°C and air bubbles can appear.
A solution to this can be to change the inkjet paper and apply a heat-activated polyester laminate (please ask for details). The paper should be more accepting to the ink and provide a better bonding surface for co-polymer adhesives.
Also remember that prints must be completely dry before laminating and highly saturated prints will take longer to dry.
What is the difference between heated and cold rollers and what does the term silvering mean?
Some Pressure sensitive films if applied cold can leave a slight silvering effect on the print. If approx 40°C heat is applied on the rollers when this film is applied the silvering disappears.
This is due to the fact the glue on the film is softened and warmed when applied and speeds up the polymerisation process. Over time the silvering when applied cold does slightly reduce but does not totally disappear.
Not all films need heat and vinyls and vehicle wrap films work better when laminated cold. Most signmakers therefore feel that a cold machine will be fine because the silvering effect is minimal. Photographers and Exhibition graphic suppliers are more critical and therefore require a heated top roller for a perfect finish.
Our Easymount range of cold systems have rubber rollers and the heated roller machines have a silicon rubber roller.
My laminator is out of warranty, can you still repair it?
Please complete our returns form and we shall arrange to collect your laminating machine. Once we have received the laminator back in our workshop, we will fault diagnose and let you know the outcome.
Can I purchase replacement blades, clamp strips or cutting sticks for my system?
Yes, all of the above are available from our Service Department. Please contact us on 0845 017 6515.
The laminating rollers are turning but are not driving the documents/film through.
Ensure the roller pressure handle is turned fully clockwise to the “Lock” position.
Why is the film not sticking on the bottom when I try to double side laminate/encapsulate?
Ensure that the “Both Heat” switch is set when NOT single side laminating.
What do you suggest for cleaning my rollers?
ME20 for chrome plated steel roller. Amberclens anti-static cleaner for rubber rollers. Both are available to purchase from our Service Department. Please contact us on 0845 017 6515 for more information.
The documents are not splitting successfully at the rear of my machine.
Please ensure there is sufficient pressure on your perforating wheel, the angled rollers are positioned correctly and press position matches your anti-curl setting.
For further details, please see the “troubleshooting” section of our Matrix video Here.
The machine turns on, but the rollers will not run or heat. Why is this?
Please ensure both the feed tray and guard are correctly fitted. If the pins on the tray and the guard are not completely locked into place, the machine will not run. This is a safety feature of the machine.
What temperature do I need to set my machine at?
Most encapsulation film operates between 100°C and 120°C. Therefore, we suggest setting your system at 110°C and a speed of 1m/m.
Why is my media/film creasing towards the centre of the rollers?
You are applying too much roller pressure. For further details, please watch our Easymount video by clicking here.
The red light is illuminated on the power switch, but there is no power to the blue LCD display - why?
Firstly, please check that the emergency stop button has not been pressed. If the emergency stop button hasn’t been pushed, please check the fuse at the back of the machine.